Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, originally a feudatory of the Khalji dynasty, ascended the throne after overthrowing the Khaljis. His dream was to construct a formidable city-fortress to protect Delhi from Mongol invasions. Unbelievable as it may appear today, the vast complex was built in record time. Supposedly under a curse from Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya, it became a ghost city within fifteen years of its birth. Legend has it that the construction of the fort was marred by a conflict with Sufi Nizamuddin Auliya. As Tughlaq forced all available laborers to work on the fort, construction on Nizamuddin Auliya’s stepwell was halted, sparking the saint’s wrath. According to folklore, the Auliya cursed the fort, saying, “Ya base gujjar, ya rahe ujjar” (may it either be inhabited by nomads or remain deserted). His prediction turned out to be true as the fort was soon abandoned.
While returning victorious from Bengal in 1324, Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq halted at Kara, where his son, Muhammad bin Tughlaq, orchestrated his assassination. The sultan was crushed under a collapsing pavilion, making way for his son’s ascension to the throne.
The sultan’s tomb, situated just outside the fort, is connected via a causeway once spanning an artificial lake. Built with red sandstone and white marble, the square tomb features sloping walls, battlements, and an octagonal dome. Inside, three graves lie: Ghiyasuddin’s own, along with those of his wife and son. Another smaller tomb within the enclosure is believed to house Zafar Khan, a noble from the same era.
The fort remains one of the most remarkable examples of Tughluq military architecture. The fort's entrance features grand elephant-friendly stairs, designed to enhance its regal and majestic aura. Fort’s rubble-filled sloping walls, 10 to 15 meters high, were reinforced by bastions and topped with battlements. Originally, the city had 52 gates, but only 13 stand today. The fortification once included seven rainwater tanks, essential for survival. The layout of Tughluqabad is divided into three sections: residential area, citadel and palace complex. Residential area is a grid-patterned settlement where people once lived. Citadel is the highest point of the fort, featuring the Bijai Mandal tower, remnants of halls and a long underground passage. Palace complex, the royal residence, connected via subterranean routes. The fort complex spreads over an area of more than 6.5 sq km.
There were two stepwells within the Tughlaq Fort - East Baoli and West Baoli. Built with massive sandstone blocks, both stepwells feature steep, symmetrical staircases leading to deep reservoirs. The East Baoli is larger, around 25 meters deep, with multiple tiers of steps ensuring year-round water access. The West Baoli, though smaller at approximately 15 meters deep, follows a similar design with fortified walls. These baolis were crucial for water conservation, supporting the fort’s garrison during dry seasons.
Despite its grandeur, Tughlaqabad Fort fell into neglect after Ghiyasuddin’s death. Muhammad bin Tughlaq, his successor, abandoned it and shifted the capital to Devgiri (rechristened as Daulatabad), further sealing its fate. Over time, encroachment, thorny vegetation and lack of conservation have rendered most of the site inaccessible. Illegal settlements have emerged near the lakes within the ruins, further diminishing its historical integrity.
Nearby, the ruins of Adilabad Fort, built by Muhammad bin Tughlaq, mirror Tughlaqabad’s architectural style. Though smaller in scale, it serves as an extension of the grand defensive system envisioned by the Tughlaq dynasty.
Tughlaqabad Fort stands as a silent witness to Delhi’s turbulent past. Once envisioned as an impregnable bastion, it now remains a haunted relic of ambition, betrayal, and legend. The best time to visit Tughlaqabad Fort is from October to March, when the weather is pleasant for exploration. To reach, take the Delhi Metro to Tughlakabad Station (Violet Line) or hire a cab. Buses also connect it to major city points. Private vehicles are convenient, with parking available nearby.