Chandrabhaga, a river of esteemed repute, meanders gracefully through the district of Jhalawar in Rajasthan , a city founded by Jhala Jalim Singh in the year 1789 CE. In the annals of history, during the reign of Durggan in the 7th century CE, the region flourished under the governance of the local chieftain Voppak and bore the illustrious name of Chandravati. This epoch witnessed the erection of several temples, which, due to their historical and architectural significance, have been duly inscribed in the Inventory of Monuments and Sites of National Importance by the Jaipur Circle of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
Within the sacred grounds of Chandrabhaga Temple Complex, several chhatris (arched-roofed pavilions) stand, while to the right of the Sitaleshwar Temple lies a ghat, the riverbank adorned with the vestiges of bygone temples. A venerable banyan tree (Ficus bengalensis) graces the complex, its roots entwined between the Sitaleshwar and Shiva Temples. Beneath its expansive canopy, several Shiva ‘lingams’ repose in solemn divinity. Pilgrims, having purified themselves in the river’s sanctified waters, offer prayers under it, for the banyan tree, known locally as ‘bargad,’ is venerated as the Tree of Life. Within Hindu traditions, this tree is deemed a harbinger of fertility and longevity. Consequently, married women fervently pray before it, seeking the enduring well-being of their spouses and invoking blessings for progeny. The month of Kartik (October–November) draws countless pilgrims to the Chandrabhaga Temple Complex.
Sitaleshwar Temple: The revered Sitaleshwar Temple stands as the focal point of the Chandrabhaga temple complex, drawing both devotees and admirers of ancient craftsmanship. Still an active place of worship, the temple comprises a ‘mandapam’ (pillared hall), an antarala (small vestibule connecting ‘mandapam/ to sanctum sanctorum) and a sanctified ‘garbhagriha’ (sanctum sanctorum). Its outer walls are adorned with intricate sculptures. However, its ‘shikhara’ has ruined, leaving only a flat roof covering the ‘mandapam’ and ‘antarala’. The temple bears witness to the evolving architectural influences over centuries. A Shiva Lingam is enshrined in the sanctum sanctorum. Proceeding from the ‘mandapam’ into the ‘antarala’, one encounters a statue of Nandi, the sacred bull.
Shiva Temple -1: Located to the left of the revered Sitaleshwar Temple, behind the ancient banyan tree, stands a temple consecrated to Lord Shiva. The temple is in a state of considerable decay. The temple has an ‘antaralaya’ (vestibule). The vestibule remains stark and unembellished, with two recesses adorning its lateral sides. From vestibule, one enters a ‘garbhagriha’ (sanctum sanctorum), whose threshold is devoid of ornamentation. It houses a Shiva Lingam with four sides adorned with the sculpted figures of standing deities. The once-majestic ‘shikhara’ (superstructure) lies in ruin.
Vishnu Temple: The temple currently has no deity in the ‘garbhagriha’, but the sculptural representations of Vaishnav ‘dvarapalas’ on the doorframe suggest that the temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It has ornately carved base moulding. The temple’s external walls have lost their adornments. However, the presence of a few sculptures suggests that the walls were entirely carved with beautiful statues of deities. The temple’s most captivating feature is its exquisitely sculpted doorframe, a testament to the refined aesthetic sensibilities of its patron and the unparalleled craftsmanship of the artisans of its time. Sculptures on the external wall depict the ‘dikapalas’. Indra is depicted on one of the projected corners of the ‘garbhagriha’ on the east. Agni is depicted on the southern wall at the corner, next to Indra.
Shiva Temple - 2: The temple next to the Vishnu Temple is similar in plan and follows a similar style. This temple is dedicated to Shiva and is covered with the figures of deities associated with Shaivism, such as Matrikas. The temple has a square, plain garbhagriha in which a Shiva lingam is placed at the centre. It has profound, well-carved mouldings and walls. The mouldings of the base have all the mouldings present in Vishnu Temple. The wall was once adorned with many sculptures that have now fallen, and the internal structure can be seen now. The ‘shikhar’ of the temple has also collapsed. The most beautiful part of this temple is the doorframe of the ‘garbhagriha’, which is carved like the doorframe of Vishnu Temple. However, it is in a better state of preservation.
Kalika Devi Temple: There is a flat-roofed structure at the northern entrance of the Chandrabhaga Temple Complex. The structure is popularly known as the Navadurga Mandir too. The temple is presently used as storage by ASI and has several loose sculptures inside its garbhagriha. Comprised of a ‘garbhagriha’ and ‘antarala’ (small vestibule connecting ‘mandapam’ with sanctum sanctorum), the exterior walls of the ‘garbhagriha’ of the temple are plain and devoid of decoration and sculptures. The ‘antarala’ leads to the ‘garbhagriha’ via an adorned door. The doorframe was multi-branched, but the current doorframe is the result of restoration work, evidenced by the two different decorative and sculptural schemes. The original door comprises branches and lintel on the right that reflect the Vaishnava theme, but the left part of the door reflects a Shaiva theme, suggesting that this part was previously part of a Shiva temple and placed here later. The bottom of the original doorframe on the right shows a Vaishnava ‘dvarapala’ flanked by two female attendants.
Ganesha Mandapam: There is a small ‘mandapam’ (pillared pavilion) near the Kalika Devi Temple that houses Lord Ganesha. The ‘mandapam’ is a four-pillared open structure with a flat roof. It is standing on a stone platform and has a low plinth base. The pillars have square bases. The middle part of the shaft is faceted and carved with standing female figures. Above the abacus, there are brackets in place to support the flat roof. This open mandapam has a stele at the centre carved with the figure of Ganesha with his consorts.
Chandrabhaga Temple of Jhalawar region is also called Chandramaulishwar Mahadev Temple. Chandrabhaga temple, on the banks of river Chandrabhaga, is a splendid temple built in 7th century AD. Complexly carved pillars and arched walkways are good examples of temple architecture and art. It provides a very good example of temple architecture. The carved columns, the archways and the exquisite workmanship make this temple complex unique.